Acne is a genetic predisposition of retention hyperkeratosis, which occurs when there is accelerated production of skin cells within the pores, and simultaneous increased retention of dead skin cells. But not every pore experiences the effects of retention hyperkeratosis, only the acne-prone follicles demonstrate this response.
A healthy pore will shed approximately one layer of dead skin per day inside the pore, while an acne-prone pore will shed up to FIVE layers per day. The skin cannot keep up by expelling all these dead skin cells, so they start to build up in the pore. As the skin cells start to accumulate, they start to become sticky with the addition of the oil production of the follicle. At this point, a microcomedone has started to form inside the pore, unseen to the naked eye.
This is why it is imperative to understand the retention hyperkeratosis process, and how to interrupt it. For a lot of acne-prone individuals this means exfoliating more frequently, often daily, with a gentle acid serum while also adding topical hydration to the skin. Those who are not predisposed to acne-prone follicles won’t need to exfoliate as often, and 1-3x a week can be plenty (depending on the individual’s skin).
Gentle exfoliating acids like Mandelic acid are a favorite of acne specialists, because its large molecule size makes it gentle enough to be used daily without causing over sensitization of the barrier.
Work with a licensed esthetician to help figure out what products will be best for your skin goals, and how often to exfoliate and what to exfoliate with.
A healthy pore will shed approximately one layer of dead skin per day inside the pore, while an acne-prone pore will shed up to FIVE layers per day. The skin cannot keep up by expelling all these dead skin cells, so they start to build up in the pore. As the skin cells start to accumulate, they start to become sticky with the addition of the oil production of the follicle. At this point, a microcomedone has started to form inside the pore, unseen to the naked eye.
This is why it is imperative to understand the retention hyperkeratosis process, and how to interrupt it. For a lot of acne-prone individuals this means exfoliating more frequently, often daily, with a gentle acid serum while also adding topical hydration to the skin. Those who are not predisposed to acne-prone follicles won’t need to exfoliate as often, and 1-3x a week can be plenty (depending on the individual’s skin).
Gentle exfoliating acids like Mandelic acid are a favorite of acne specialists, because its large molecule size makes it gentle enough to be used daily without causing over sensitization of the barrier.
Work with a licensed esthetician to help figure out what products will be best for your skin goals, and how often to exfoliate and what to exfoliate with.